Leash Training
Leash-Training Troubleshooting
Even though your dog may be learning to walk on a leash very nicely, you’re likely to run into some issues as he gets older, goes new places, and experiences new distractions. You’ll want to teach him loose-leash walking, because it’s much more pleasant for you both, and also then he can pass his Canine Good Citizen test. Here are a few tips on what to do if you’re having trouble with leash training, courtesy of the AKC GoodDog! Helpline.
If your pup pulls: If your dog starts pulling in the other direction, turn yourself into “a tree.” Stand very still and refuse to move until your dog comes back to you. Do not yank or jerk the leash, and do not drag your dog along with you. Front-hook harnesses and head halters are alternative training tools designed for dogs that tend to pull.
If your pup lunges: If your dog is going after something while on a walk — another dog, a car, a skateboarder, for example, be proactive. Try to redirect his attention with a treat before he has a chance to lunge, and increase the space between your dog and the target. Stay alert and be prepared before the target of his frustration gets too close. This type of behavior may be more common in herding breeds, but any dog can be startled by something he’s not used to or finds exciting.
If your pup barks: Some dogs have the habit of barking at other dogs while on a walk. Oftentimes, this behavior comes as a result of lack of exercise. Make sure your dog gets the proper amount of mental and physical stimulation for his age and breed. If this is still a problem, use the same process as you would if your dog is lunging, as described above — create distance and offer treats before he starts to bark, so every time he sees a dog he gets used to turning his attention to you.
Gradually you’ll reduce the number of treats and the amount of troubleshooting that your puppy needs during a walk, but it’s a good idea to keep some on hand at all times so you can randomly reinforce good leash-walking behavior.
Grey Face Rescue provides prong collars, martingale collars, harnesses, gentle leader, leashes and muzzles. If you are in need of any of these items, please contact your Foster Manager or stop by our facility. Retractable leashes ARE NOT ALLOWED on foster dogs.
Crate Training
The Training Process
Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast.
Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate
Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn't one of them:
Bring them over to the crate and talk to them in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten them.
Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If they refuse to go all the way in at first, that's OK; don't force them to enter.
Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If they aren’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.
Step 2: Feed your dog meals in the crate
After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate.
If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate.
If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them, place the dish a little further back in the crate.
Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating.
If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time period. If they do whine or cry in the crate, don’t let them out until they stop. Otherwise, they'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so they'll keep doing it.
Step 3: Practice with longer crating periods
After your dog is eating their regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you're home.
Call them over to the crate and give them a treat.
Give them a command to enter, such as "crate." Encourage them by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand.
After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give them the treat and close the door.
Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time and then let them out.
Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you're out of sight.
Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving them crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting them sleep there at night. This may take several days or weeks.
Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave
After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving them crated for short periods when you leave the house.
Put them in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave them with a few safe toys in the crate.
Vary the moment during your "getting ready to leave" routine that you put your dog in the crate. Although they shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate them anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving.
Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give them a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly.
When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to them in an enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid increasing their anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so they don't associate crating with being left alone.
Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night
Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let outside. Older dogs should also initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation.
Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet.
Potential problems
Whining: If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they’re whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they need to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from their crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, they'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at them or pounding on the crate will only make things worse.
If the whining continues after you've ignored them for several minutes, use the phrase they associate with going outside to eliminate. If they respond and become excited, take them outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore them until they stop whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what they want. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.
Separation anxiety: Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but they may get injured in an attempt to escape. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization procedures. You may want to consult a professional animal-behavior specialist for help.
Grey Face Rescue provides a variety of kennels: plastic, metal or we can provide baby gates to use to block of your foster animal in a bathroom or laundry room.
SEPARATION ANXIETY
Separation anxiety describes dogs that usually are overly attached or dependent on family members. They become extremely anxious and show distress behaviors such as vocalization, destruction, or house soiling when separated from the owners.
When and where is the dog experiencing separation anxiety?
What is the dog doing to show separation anxiety (barking, destruction, etc.)?
Is the dog kenneled or confined in a room when you leave?
How much exercise is the dog receiving before they are left alone?
Are you providing any enrichment for the dog prior to leaving (Kong ball, snuffle mat, etc.)?
Do you have soft music or the TV playing when you leave?
You can begin the process of training your foster to cope with your absence by reading the following articles:
https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/separation-anxiety-in-dogs
https://pets.webmd.com/dogs-separation-anxiety#1
https://www.humanesociety.org/resources/does-your-dog-freak-out-when-you-leave
ANXIETY
Anxiety can manifest itself in multiple ways, from whining and barking to shivering and whimpering. You may also find that your dog becomes destructive or hostile when anxious. Over time, they may lose their appetite and become completely withdrawn if the anxiety is not addressed.
The most common reasons for anxiety in a dog is abandonment, fear of being home alone, loud noises, traveling, and/or being around strange people, children, or other pets. We’ve also seen the anxiety in dogs that have been abused or neglected.
The best way to treat your canine companion is to determine the cause. Anxiety is usually evident and easily identified. Once you pinpoint the reason, you can go about treatment management.
7 Proven Ways to Calm Your Anxious Dog
1. Exercise Your Dog
If your dog has separation anxiety, the obvious way to ease their mind is to never leave them alone. That is not a reality for most pet owners, so using exercise as both a bonding time and to tire out your pet is often an easy fix!
Because anxiety can cause an excess of energy, taking your dog out to play ball or on a long walk before you leave can be helpful. Providing plenty of physical contact and talking to them during this time is also beneficial. And, like their human counterparts, exercise can help relieve stress by producing beneficial endorphins.
Are you already walking your foster dog? It may not be enough - add an additional loop around the block or mile.
See the exercise section of this page for details.
2. Physical Contact
There is probably nothing more soothing to an anxious dog than its owner’s touch. Try to identify the signs of anxiety in your foster dog and nip them in the bud as early as possible by picking them up, cuddling on the couch, or giving them a good long petting session.
3. Massage
As you probably know, a massage will relax and calm even the most anxious human — did you know it also works wonders with dogs as well?! Anxiety often causes tensing of the muscles and massage therapy is one way to alleviate tension. Start at the neck and work downward with long strokes. Try to keep one hand on the dog, while the other works to massage. Over time you may even be able to identify where your dog holds its stress and just work on that one particular area.
4. Music Therapy
Music therapy has been proven to be beneficial for both humans, as well as our canine and feline friends. The power of music can be calming and relaxing while you’re home, in the car, or away from your pet. Music can also alleviate noise sensitivity by blocking the street or scary noises that bother some dogs and create anxiety.
5. Time-Out
While anxiety isn’t a bad behavior per se, it can help to give your foster dog some time-out when they’re acting out. Isolating your pet in a safe and quiet space can help calm their frayed nerves. Maybe that space has some very quiet music playing, low lights, and/or some aromatherapy available.
6. Calming Coats/T-Shirts
Calming coats and t-shirts apply mild, constant pressure to a dog’s torso, surrounding a dog much like a swaddling cloth on a baby. It’s recommended for dogs with any type of anxiety induced by travel, separation, noise, or stranger anxiety.
Depending on the size of your dog, there are several brands and models to choose from. You can check out ThunderShirt Anxiety Jacket, American Kennel Club Stress Relief Coat, and the Comfort Zone Calming Vest.
7. Alternative Therapies
While there is limited evidence that alternative products can be of benefit to dogs suffering from anxiety, the products listed below are non-invasive and will cause no harm. They are therapies that can be used alone or combined with those above to be more effective. Be sure to do proper research before implementing alternative therapies, and consult with your veterinarian, too.
Supplements
There are dog treats that contain helpful supplements proven to help anxiety. Typically they will contain melatonin, thiamin, chamomile, L-Theanine or L-tryptophan. Some also have a ginger element to help with sensitive stomachs. These are often recommended for general and travel anxiety.
Adaptil Home Diffuser
Adaptil is basically aromatherapy for dogs! It uses pheromones to help allay fears, much like a nursing mother gives off to her puppies. It is easy to use: just plug the diffuser into the room your dog spends the most time in. The diffuser releases “dog-appeasing” pheromones, an odorless scent particular to dogs. (Humans, cats, and other pets will not smell anything.)
For puppies, you can also use Adaptil’s lightweight collar that can be worn until they’re 6 months old, which helps with the inevitable separation anxiety.
ThunderCloud
This unit combines music therapy with aromatherapy to help calm your dog by using both auditory and olfactory senses. The sound machine can play a variety of calming loops, such as a babbling brook or relaxing waves lapping at the shore, while the essential oils combine several known to be calming, like lavender, chamomile, and geranium. Good for dogs with noise sensitivity, separation anxiety, and to help them sleep through the night.
If you find that the above treatments are not the answer for your dog and their anxiety, it’s best to consult your veterinarian. There are a variety of prescription medications available for separation anxiety and destructive behavior that could be beneficial.
MARKING/ACCIDENTS
Typically, when a dog is marking it is a small amount of urine in several places. These places may be random, or they could be in a favorite spot. Dogs can mark for many reasons; the two most common are to show ownership on what they consider their territory and anxiety.
Dogs that mark when visiting (e.g., the homes of friends or relatives, dog shows, veterinary clinics, obedience classes) should be kept on leash, at least until they are comfortable, settled and have had the opportunity for supervised exploration of the new environment. Where practical, it might be advisable to leave these dogs at home, rather than take them to places that have odors that are just waiting to be anointed with a urine mark. If you do take your dog along, make sure to keep your dog occupied with a task that is unlikely to lead to urine marking.
Aggression and Bites
Definitions of “Aggressive”
To say that a dog is “aggressive” can mean a host of things. We want to use the term “attack” sparingly, as aggression encompasses a range of behaviors that usually begin with warnings and can culminate in an attack. Many dogs are labeled as “aggressive” when they’re actually acting out of fear or were provoked (even if we didn’t know it) in some way. Many behaviors can be managed. A dog that shows aggression to people usually exhibits some part of the following sequence of increasingly intense behaviors:
Becoming very still and rigid
Guttural bark that sounds threatening
Lunging forward or charging at the person with no contact
Mouthing, as though to move or control the person, without applying significant pressure
“Muzzle punch” (the dog literally punches the person or the dog with her nose)
Growling
Showing teeth
Snarling (a combination of growling and showing teeth)
Snapping
Quick nipping that leaves no mark
Quick biting that tears the skin
Biting with enough pressure to cause a bruise
Biting that causes puncture wounds
Repeated biting in rapid succession
Biting and shaking
Raised hair on their neck or back
Dogs don’t always follow this sequence, and they often do several of the behaviors above simultaneously. Many times, pet parents don’t recognize the warning signs before a bite, so they perceive their dogs as suddenly flying off the handle. That’s rarely the case, however. It can be just milliseconds between a warning and a bite, but dogs rarely bite without giving some type of warning beforehand.
Aggression Toward Humans
Any bites to a person (if a dog only shows aggression to males or females in the home, it still needs to be reported)
Any nips, snapping, or attempted bites
Growling when accompanied by snapping, nipping or biting
Lunging at people
Showing teeth to people (this behavior may precede an actual bite)
Food Aggression
Food aggression is when a dog is aggressively protecting food or treats. Food aggressive dogs can bite humans or other dogs. If your foster dog shows this, please feed them separately in different rooms or in their kennel
Dog Aggression
If you see your foster dog going after one of your dogs consistently.
If a dog is ever hurt or injured by another.
If a dog shows aggression to other dogs while getting treats.
If the dog growls at another dog consistently or while out walking.
RESOURCE GUARDING
Resource guarding in dogs can range from relatively benign behavior, like running away with a coveted item or growling at an approaching person, to full-blown aggression, such as biting or chasing a person away. Some dogs only direct resource guarding toward certain people, often strangers. Other dogs guard their resources from all people. Dogs vary in what they consider valuable. Some dogs only guard chew bones or toys. Some guard stolen items, such as food wrappers from the trash can or socks. Many dogs guard food.
If you feel as though your foster dog resource guards items of value, it’s important to make immediate changes to your routine. Here are a few changes that you must make immediately:
Your foster should never eat close to another animal in the home. The best way to feed your foster is in their kennel with the door closed and shut.
Remove all toys and bones from the home. Your foster can enjoy those in their kennel. Remember to remove from kennel when they are not in there.
No shared water bowls - these can also become a trigger.
Practice tricks - patience is key. Spend 10-15 minutes every evening teaching them to sit nice and wait for a treat, stay, hold it on their nose and other “easier” tricks.
We have found many great articles that touch on resource guarding.
https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/training/resource-guarding-why-does-my-dog-guard-objects/
https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/dog-care/common-dog-behavior-issues/food-guarding
EXERCISING YOUR DOG
Do you have a high-energy dog? Do you need some ideas to burn some energy? Depending on the breed, even a senior dog can have high energy and if they don’t have the appropriate outlets then they can express some undesirable behaviors.
First ask yourself?
Am I taking my dog on walks?
Am I playing fetch with my dog?
Am I exercising my dog’s mind (ie. enrichment)?
Here are some exercise ideas for your dog!
Kong ball
Puzzle feeders
Snuffle mats
Fetch (use hallways or basements)
Throw a ball up and down the stairs
Set up an obstacle course
Practice commands
Play hide and seek with treats
Blow bubbles
Chew toys
Plan a play date with another foster (ensure they are dog-friendly beforehand)
Walk/Run
Agility
Nose work
Why Exercise Is Important for Your Dog
Being a responsible pet owner entails going beyond the basics and taking time to ensure your dog is happy, healthy, and will live a long life. The right food, regular vaccinations, cuddle time, and exercise are important keys to a dog’s happiness.
Exercise is vital because it keeps your dog’s weight in check, and decreases the likelihood of suffering from a myriad of obesity-related health issues. Exercise also keeps joints in good shape, ensures easy mobility, and helps with food digestion.
If you have a hyperactive dog or are combating behavioral problems, exercise can help get rid of excess energy and curb bad habits such as chewing, barking, and digging.
Types of Exercise
Exercising with your dog is most enjoyable when you find activities that fit your interests and lifestyle. You might also want to consider your dog’s temperament, the weather in your area, and your location.
Walk/Jog/Run
Exercise in the great outdoors is perhaps one of the most beneficial activities for you and your foster dog. Whether you walk, jog, or run is based on both your foster dog’s and your own preference and activity levels. You need to find a happy medium and set a pace that works for both of you.
Experts agree daily walks of at least 15 minutes are best for your furry friend. If you can’t get out every day, try for at least 2-3 times a week and make the walks a bit longer. Vary your route so you and your canine companion don’t get bored. If your schedule limits your time, you could also hire a dog walker.
Swim
This activity is perfect for dogs of all ages and weights. The buoyancy allows joints to move freely without the pounding they get on pavement, which makes it particularly good for large breeds, arthritis or hip issues, obese dogs, and/or older dogs.
It is important to note: not every breed of dog takes to the water like a duck. You may have a dog that has no idea what they’re doing, or may even have an aversion to water. Do not force your dog if they appear distressed or uninterested. If they do enjoy swimming, make sure they know where the steps are so they can safely get in and out of the pool.
Fetch
This age old game is enjoyed by most canines and doesn’t require a huge amount of energy on your part! You can use a stick, Frisbee, ball, or other toy, whatever piques your dog’s interest.
Training Games/Obstacle Course
This can be daunting for new dog owners who are unfamiliar with training games and obstacle courses. These activities keep your dog agile, teach them commands, and obedience. We suggest you start by taking your dog to an agility class to learn the basics. They’re also great for socialization and give you basics for future exercise time.
Not all play needs to take place outdoors. There are activities that can be done in your home, particularly if the weather is too hot or cold.
Tug of War
Almost every dog likes to play tug of war! While most socialized dogs understand tug of war is just a game, it could potentially bring out their aggressiveness. Should your foster dog express aggressive behaviors while playing, drop the game immediately.
Stair Races
Do you live in a two-story house? Use the stairs as an exercise facility! You can challenge your dog to races, or have one person at the top and one at the bottom to entice your foster dog up and down. Make sure there is plenty of traction so they don’t slip and fall!
Keep Away
While you might have had a bad experience with this game as a child, your dog will surely love it. Take a favorite toy and toss between two people down a long hallway or in a large room, so that they chase it back and forth. Be sure to let them get the toy once in awhile!
Treadmill Time
Yes, you can train your foster dog to use that treadmill that sits unused in the corner of the family room — or you can get one specially designed just for pets. Much like with swimming, this activity will not come naturally. You will have to slowly introduce them to it in stages. Provide treats when they do a good job. Before long, they may be a regular user, happy to hop on!
How Much Exercise?
The amount of exercise your dog needs will depend both on your time constraints, their physical ability and their breed. As a general rule, dogs need between 30 to 120 minutes of exercise activity each day. This can include running around the backyard, and any of the aforementioned activities.
However, hunting, working and herding breeds will typically need more. Breeds such as Retrievers, Shepherds, Collies, Huskies, and Hounds certainly require additional time to stay fit and keep their energy levels in check.
Exercise-Related Issues
Be conscious of the following exercise-related issues:
Weather
Extreme heat and extreme cold can be hard on animals. When the weather gets above 85 or 90 degrees or below freezing, extra caution is necessary. During the hot summer months, make sure you keep your dog hydrated before, during, and after exercise. In the winter, you may need to dress your pets in sweaters, jackets, or shoes (depending on the breed, size, and coat). This will protect against the wet and cold elements like wind, rain, frost, and snow.
Breed
Breeds with shorter snouts have difficulty breathing if they overexert their energy (particularly in warmer weather). Don’t overdo playtime: use multiple shorter bursts of exercise rather than one long session. These dogs are better walked than taken on a jog or a rough uphill hike. The same can be said for dogs with shorter legs, like Dachshunds, Basset Hounds, Corgis and some terriers. Temper your pace so they aren’t over exerting themselves.
Age
You’ll find you need to be more careful with dogs at either end of the age spectrum. Puppies; while full of energy, have developing bones and joints. You don’t want to over-exercise or you’ll pay for it in their later years. Older dogs will definitely become slower in their gait, as their joints become arthritic. Long, hard runs they once enjoyed will need to be kept shorter and less strenuous as they age.
Size
If your dog has been ill and is underweight, they will still need to get some exercise. Until they are back to their normal weight, take it easy and go slow. The same can be said for dogs that are overweight. Carrying around those extra pounds can be hard on their hearts, so start slowly and build up your routine. As the pounds come off, they’ll be able to exercise for longer periods.
As we’ve said, it’s just as important to exercise your dog as it is yourself, and by keeping them active, you will keep them happy and healthy, leading to a longer life.
LEASH REACTIVITY
Here are some behaviors to watch out for:
When off-leash and in their own environment, dogs naturally greet from the side (in an arc) and sniff each other’s genital area. They don’t approach head-on and make hard eye contact unless a fight is about to start. Greetings typically last only a few seconds.
When our dogs meet on leash, they are typically forced to approach head-on and are often unable to turn their bodies. Their forced body language, and our own, tell our dogs that we want to fight with one another. Most dogs don’t want to fight, so they display a number of behaviors designed to prevent it. These distance-increasing behaviors includes barking, lunging, or growling — anything to make the threat go away.
If the dog owners decide to visit, or let the dogs say hi, the problems may get worse. On-leash, both dogs feel trapped, unable to get away from each other. Often, owners have their dogs on tight leashes, thinking this will help if anything happens. Unfortunately, a tight leash tells your dog you're stressed, making your pup more stressed in return. As a result, both dogs may start barking, switching from their flight instinct, to fight.
Many owners don’t recognize rude behavior in their dogs, thinking they’re just overly friendly. They may let their dog charge up to another one, get in their face, or jump on them. This is extremely rude behavior among dogs and is sometimes the result of a lack of socialization past the puppy stage. Adult dogs, while patient with puppy antics, will usually start to discipline puppies once they reach 5-6 months. The discipline isn’t violent and usually takes the form of a bark or growl. If a puppy never experiences these corrections, he may continue this inappropriate behavior in adulthood. When an adult dog inappropriately greets another one, the other dog will react with a loud bark or growl. It can be embarrassing and it may be assumed that the reaction means your canine companion is aggressive, while the dog’s inappropriate behavior was the issue in the first place.
Many people correct their dog for any perceived display of aggression. Some may force them to sit or lie down in an approaching dog’s path thinking this will help correct the behavior. This can be dangerous for several reasons. First, this teaches your dog that other dogs, and potentially other people, cause punishment. Remember any punishment — yelling, jerking the leash, grabbing your dog, or saying no — increases their anxiety level. Second, correcting a dog for growling or barking may prevent them from growling or barking in the future. Growling and barking are warning signs that the dog may bite. If your dog is afraid to bark or growl, it may mean they’ll bite without warning when they’re stressed or uncomfortable. Third, correcting a dog who is highly aroused or stressed may cause them to redirect their aggression to the handler.
Here are some steps to help your dog feel better on-leash:
Practice getting your pup's attention before you go out. Say their name and reward them for looking at you. Start in a low-distraction environment, like your living room. Gradually move to busier areas as you're able to get your dog's attention regardless of what's going on around you. This will teach your dog to look at you regardless of the environment.
When you're out on your walk, as you see another dog approaching, wait until your dog notices them. When they do, get their attention and reward. Don't wait for them to react! This will teach your dog to associate the presence of others with something wonderful. When they look up at you for more, go closer and repeat.
If they bark or lunge at the dog, you went too far, too fast. Or you just didn’t realize a dog was nearby. Simply add more distance and repeat. Don’t punish your dog for barking or you’ll undo the work you’ve done.
Manage your dog’s environment for everyone’s safety. Keep them at a comfortable distance from other dogs. Don’t allow others to greet (at this time), or let them invade your dog’s space. Every negative experience will set your progress back, so it’s best to avoid them if possible. If you live in an area with lots of dogs, consider taking your friend somewhere less canines are present.
If you find yourself approaching another dog head-on, simply go around them in an arc, keeping your dog's attention as suggested above. If the other dog starts to lunge and bark, keep your pup's attention and reward more often. As soon as the other dog is gone, so are the treats. This will reinforce the idea that other canine companions mean good things, like treats!